It is the third week of January. Do you know how your houseplants are?
Houseplants will dry out quickly right now as we crank our heating systems. Then we discover the dry soil, and water thoroughly right before taking a week away in someplace warm. Upon return, we discover that the plant leaves are spotty and the soil is dried out again. Diagnosis: a case of inconsistent watering. Your first step to recovery is to bring the plant to the sink (or tub if it’s a big plant!). Water slowly until the water starts to drain out. Then do it again. The soil in the pot acts like a sponge, and if too dried out, it will shed water rather than soak it up. Leave plants in the sink to finish draining before returning them to their usual locations.
Once plants get weak from lack of water, spider mites, whitefly, scale, and other indoor plant pests can take advantage. If you discover damage (insects, browned leaf edges, or drooping leaves), you may be able to save your plant. For insects, use a magnifying glass and try to identify the pest with a search online. Whitefly can be brought under control with a series of applications of insecticidal soap. Follow the directions.
Sticky leaves and stems, along with sticky surfaces around the plant, indicate scale insects. Scale insects attach themselves to plants and extract plant fluids and then excrete “honeydew,” that sticky stuff. Scale insects appear as bumps along the stems of plants, and they often appear on stressed plants. Treatment of scale depends on the degree of infestation. A small amount can be scraped off the stems, but if a branch is completely infested, you should remove it and put it in the trash. Applications of dormant oil will smother the scale. Bring the plant to a shower where you can spray the oil all around stems, above and below leaves. Then let dry. Multiple applications will be necessary, but follow the directions. Some plants react badly even to these gentle, organic control methods. If unsure, confirm that the treatment won’t cause more damage by testing on a small section.
It is a waste of time to point fingers searching for the source of pests. Pests often inhabit soil but cause no problems when houseplants receive regular watering and regular fertilizer. Pests may have come into the home as stowaways on flower gifts. Pests are opportunists and will go unnoticed until conditions allow them to flourish. Check the soil of all your houseplants every couple of days to keep moisture at an optimum level and confirm no pest outbreaks.
By the time you read this, our temperatures will have warmed again for a second January thaw. If your gardens drain adequately after this next bout of rain, you may find that the soil sinks and compacts before freezing again. Once the gardens freeze next week (yes, it’s crazy), new perennials and shrubs may be pushed up above the soil level. Take a tour around your new plantings to inspect for this frost heaving. Gently push the root balls back into position. Add a three-inch layer of compost or mulch over that root ball (keeping mulch away from stems) to help prevent the heaving next time.
As I looked out the windows at my birdfeeders last weekend, I watched the juncos flit back and forth under the rhododendron and yew hedge finding refuge from the seven-degree weather and strong winds. I am still pondering another shrub or tree to add more bird habitat along with multi-season interest. I prefer to choose a native plant.
That sounds good, right? But, “native” can be a loaded description. Opting for native plants makes a good design goal along with following the philosophy “right plant, right place.” But what native plant will grow well as a specimen foundation plant? I am looking for an architectural accent among the wild forests and wetlands.
Unless you have large swaths of property to restore to native habitat, you will need to choose your native additions to work with the cultivars or non-natives in your gardens. Like any plants, a plant native to Berkshire County may be best for a wetland and an utter failure on the slope of Lenox Mountain. Native does not mean it will grow anywhere “in its range.”
Also, native plants may not out-compete your “bred-to thrive” perennials already growing in a flower border. Young native plants may be small or appear later in the season. Mark them well and be prepared to nurture them along—or the native plants may be so successful in an area that they overwhelm everything!
These native shrubs will quickly fill an area and make dramatic colonies: red twig dogwood (Cornus sericea), Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica), pussywillow (Salix discolor), staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina), or arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum). Ask your favorite independent nursery about native plants they offer, but know your growing conditions, too. Learn more about encouraging native plants from Grown Native Massachusetts.
Native winterberry (Ilex verticillata) could be a good choice. I have seen them growing wild in Berkshire wetlands, but they don’t seem to form thickets. One could make a good specimen. However, to get the berries, I will need a male planted nearby to pollinate the featured female. Also, I am most interested in the berries and those will often be gone down the throats of birds by late January. I will use winterberry elsewhere and keep looking.
More nurseries every year feature native plants. Many smaller nurseries will only be open to shoppers part-time from April to October but may have an online ordering process. You can contact them by email now, too.
Talk to the nursery staff. Discuss the merits of a plant with your salesperson. Finally, don’t be too lazy or you will make problems for yourself later. I love my goldenrod, but I have to deadhead it and cut it back or all the gardens would be goldenrod. Even when considering a native addition, these marketing buzz words should worry you: “adaptable to most soils,” “spreads easily by roots or seeds,” “grows quickly,” “drought tolerant,” “birds love it,” or “blooms in sun or shade.” One descriptor may be just what you need, but a plant with all those features? You will have a problem.
I call myself the Lazy Berkshire Gardener because I don’t want to work too hard in my gardens. I want to enjoy them. I find it easier to observe my landscape and let the compost happen, the water pool up, or daisies to self-sow. I look for ways to do the minimum task for the biggest impact. For example, mulching is better than spraying and much better than weeding all season. I look for beautiful, low-maintenance plants that thrive in or at least tolerate my garden conditions. Plus, I’m willing to live with the consequences if I miss something.
