Williamstown — Former White House Chef Ron Reda oversees The Barn at the Williams Inn, open seven days a week for breakfast, brunch, and dinner. Reda developed a new dinner series as a creative outlet, a monthly evening for himself to “play” and for 12 lucky guests to enjoy the inspired creations from this playtime. Reda creates the menu and works with restaurant manager Paul Thayer to select the wines. I attended the opening evening of the series which was billed as a “Harvest Dinner — taste the fall season with fabulous fowl” — and that I did.
We were first served a bonus course not included on the menu, a slice of Nancy’s Camembert from Old Chatham Creamery served under a salad of lettuce, roasted delicata squash, and pear with a chive dressing. While this dish wasn’t a part of the fowl festival, it almost stole the show. This pleasing opener was paired with a glass of Ruelas Vinho Verde.
The first course was an appetizer of perfectly cooked Cavendish quail, roasted figs, and butternut squash with a coffee reduction. This beautiful dish was absolutely stunning, especially so as an appetizer, and it was the best quail I’ve ever eaten. Bravo to Chef Reda. This outstanding course was paired with a glass of Tiberio Montepulciano d’Abuzzo 2021.
Continuing on the fowl flight, the second course was a duck confit served with plum, red cabbage, and an apricot gastrique. This course won over the table and was mutually agreed to be the best dish of the evening. For me, it was the gastrique that took this dish over the edge. The savory dark meat confit paired with the bright tang of plum and apricot was the highlight of the night. This winning course was paired with a glass of Paul Jaboutlet Ainé Gingodas Pierre Aiguille 2019.
The third course in this fleet of fowl was a roasted Vermont game hen with a potato, parsnip, and Brussel sprout hash, chicken liver mousse, and a port wine sorbet. This was the most adventurous course of the evening. I personally go to chef tastings hoping for culinary surprises and this course hit that note twice — both for the liver mousse and the port wine sorbet. This daring course was paired with a Lyeth Estate Red Meritage Sonoma County 2020.
The dessert course was a candied duck breast with spicy dark chocolate and sour cherries paired with a decadent Dorda Spicy Chocolate Coupe. Unfortunately, I was full when this course was served, but of course, I happily enjoyed a taste. Next time, and I hope I can get a reservation for a next time, I’ll pace myself to save room for what is sure to be another inspired dessert by Chef Reda.
Restaurant Manager Paul Thayer served as our lovely host for the evening and his wine selections were expertly paired. Chef Ron Reda visited the table on a few occasions. He was definitely charming, interesting, and humble (in response to the well-earned applause he received throughout the evening). A guest asked him if he does cooking competitions and he simply said, “No”. Cooking is not competition for him, it’s a love. It’s obvious that he loves what he does and that is clear in both his discussion and his food. He explained that this dinner series is about fun, and that is what all of us at the table had, fun.
The new dinner series will be offered monthly, with no reservations available until at least January, at The Barn Kitchen and Bar at The Williams Inn on Spring Street in Williamstown. More information about The Barn Dinner Series by Chef Ron Reda at The Barn Kitchen & Barn at The Williams Inn can be found online.