* Not ready to harvest a mature head of cabbage now? Then grab that head and give it a sharp twist. This is not only a great way to take out one’s frustrations but it will prevent fully formed heads from splitting. Don’t try this on human heads. It really hurts.

* Avoid working around tomato plants when the leaves are wet. Spores of fungi which cause foliar diseases are easily transferred by tools, hands, and clothing that comes in contact with wet plants. Typically, it is the leaves on the lowest part of staked or caged tomato plants which are most likely to develop disease. On a dry day, snip off the leaves on the lower third of each plant. On plants which are sprawling, thin out the foliage to allow for better air movement around the stems.
* Sow seeds of biennials, such as foxglove, pansy, honesty, sweet William, Canterbury bells, and forget-me-not, in a partially shaded seed bed – e.g., in the vegetable garden – or in flower borders where they are intended to grow. If starting biennials in a seed bed, wait until they are well developed and then dig and move them to their final destination. This can be done in early fall. The plants may need winter protection. So, plan to cover them with pine boughs or other loose mulch once the ground is frozen.
* Harvest onions once the tops have flopped over and dried. Cut off the tops, leaving a one-inch stem on each bulb. Place the onions in slatted crates, bushel baskets or on screens for 2-3 weeks to allow for curing. Then, store the onions in a cool-but-airy place. Also harvest, cure, and store shallots in the same way.

* Remove annuals from container plantings if the plants are tattered. It may be difficult to find healthy looking annuals as replacements, so try some compact perennials. At the end of summer, remove the perennials from the containers and plant them in the flower border.Â
* Apply a water soluble fertilizer to long season vegetable crops, annual flowers and container plants. This should be the last fertilizer application of the season.
* Use a garden fork to dig up potatoes once the plants have completely died. At that point, you can be sure that the potatoes have finished growing and are ready for harvest. Store the harvested potatoes in a cool, dark location. I store our spuds in the basement in burlap bags or in crates lined and covered with burlap. Whatever storage method is used, the potatoes must not be exposed to light as that will turn the skins green. Green potato skins contain a chemical called solanine, which is toxic to humans.

* Groom flower borders. Trim away ragged or diseased foliage on perennials and cut back flowering stems that are past their prime. Edging the borders will also give a fresh look for the final stretch before autumn.Â
* Enjoy the lavender blue spikes of Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia). This silvery leafed perennial has become very popular in landscapes since it tolerates poor soils and sunny, dry sites. The flowers which appear in mid-July are long-lived, often lasting until first frost of fall. The flowers can be cut for indoor arrangements.