* Enjoy the beauty of Easter lily blossoms while they last, which is not all that long. However, do not throw away the plant after it is done flowering. Do remove the faded blossoms and continue to treat it as a sun-loving houseplant. In early June, transplant the lily outdoors to a spot with well-drained soil and in a somewhat protected area ,such as near the house foundation. Plant the bulb 6 inches deep and cut back any leaves that have withered and turned brown. With a little luck, it may bloom again in summer. In any case, cut back all the wilted foliage in fall and cover the plant with 6 inches of straw or pine needles just as the ground begins to freeze. With a little more luck, the lily may survive and flower again next summer.
* Fertilize seedlings started indoors once they are a couple of inches tall. Apply an organic liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion or a water-soluble fertilizer on a weekly schedule until ready to transplant to the garden. When using a non-organic, water-soluble fertilizer, prepare a solution at half the strength listed on the product label to avoid any damage to seedlings from salt accumulation.
* Leave a layer of straw mulch around emerging garlic seedlings. The mulch will not only reduce weed competition but also keeps the soil a bit cool this summer, something which encourages good bulb development.
* Take cuttings from houseplants such as coleus and root these in a mix of coarse sand or perlite and potting soil. To promote good rooting of the cuttings, place the pot containing the cuttings in a clear plastic bag. I create a tripod of bamboo stakes set in the pot for the purpose of preventing the bag from collapsing onto the cuttings. Place this make-shift rooting chamber in a warm, brightly lit spot but away from direct sunlight.
* Till under winter cover crops and any undecomposed organic matter, such as leaves or straw, resting atop the soil as soon as garden soils have dried enough to be workable, Allow at least two weeks for the organic matter to break down before planting any crops. This instruction does not apply to the addition of finished compost to soil.
* Indulge in a little nostalgia; plant peonies now. Flowering will be best if they are planted in full sun.
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Speaking of nostalgia, rhubarb is another of those plants that, years ago, everyone seemed to grow. My family was no exception. I still have a vivid memory of my mother making rhubarb sauce and canning it. Along with canned peaches, pears, blackberries, and raspberries, it was the primary source of dessert for us through the winter.
For anyone who does not have any rhubarb, I suggest encouraging a friend with rhubarb to dig and divide a plant and give you a couple of the divisions. Rhubarb is a very easy plant to grow. Set the divisions three feet apart in soil that has been enriched with compost or well-rotted manure. The top or crown of each division should be just below the soil surface. It’s probably not a good idea to harvest any of the leaf stalks this year, as the plants will need a year to re-establish a strong root system. Next spring, harvest lightly and then more heavily each year thereafter.
Keep in mind that only the leaf stalks and NOT the leaf blades are used. The leaf blades contain toxic levels of oxalic acid. Rhubarb has so many uses: sauces, pies, scones (my favorite), and even wine. Furthermore, stalks that aren’t used immediately may be cut into pieces and frozen, without blanching, or they can be cooked and then canned.
