The year 1837 was considered “peak sheep” for our wooly fellow denizens of Berkshire County, with 136,962 being raised that season. Today, after the last woolen mill closed in the area in the 1950s, it is estimated that the county supports about 1,000 sheep in flocks ranging in size from a couple of sheep to well over 100. Our area is fortunate that Mary Berle of Lila’s Mountain Farm has committed to stewarding her family’s farm that provides hay, haylage, and 24/7 livestock guardian-dog protection for over 400 sheep. The sheep, in kind, produce delicious meat and fine wool that Mary’s production partners in Vermont spin into yarn and ultimately become her much-sought-after sweaters. They are densely knit in a classic style with fetching rolled edges and can easily become family heirlooms themselves.
I spoke with Berle to learn more about her business. Our conversation has been edited for length and clarity.
EDGE
How did you come to be a steward of this land and these animals?
BERLE
I came from a family that has been committed to farming and land preservation over many generations. Years ago, my mother Lila’s growing flock of 40 sheep that she kept at our property in Stockbridge needed more space, and she immediately recognized that this ledgy and boney property, dominated by a steep ridge line and straddling the three towns of Alford, Great Barrington, and Egremont, was very well adapted for raising sheep, and so she purchased it from a former dairy farmer. For over 40 years, my mom bred for hardiness, delicious meat, and high-quality wool. She successfully executed her vision for developing a flock that is good for both meat and wool. When she retired at age 83, four years ago, I wanted to honor and expand her legacy in the hope that the next generation after me also has a chance to work on a sustainable farm in the Berkshires.
EDGE
How did the COVID-19 pandemic affect your business?
BERLE
Before COVID, a lot of my mom’s business was selling directly to restaurants as well as selling whole animals for religious celebrations. Honestly, both of those markets tanked during COVID. Mom had loved supporting those kinds of live celebrations, but we needed to come up with a new strategy to rebuild our customer base, and I feel very hopeful about what’s possible, but we are not there yet. Currently, we use a USDA butcher and sell locally to Taft Farms, High Lawn Farm’s retail store, and this is our first season at Berkshire Grown’s Winter Market in Housatonic that we’re very excited about. We’re still trying to figure out ways to share what we’re doing here with the public other than farm tourism. I believe strongly in creating outstanding products that we can share directly with our customers—to me, this feels like real farming.
EDGE
When did you start accepting BerkShares as a form of payment?
BERLE
Last year around the holidays, in a wonderfully supportive move, Susan Witt, the executive director for the Schumacher Center for a New Economics, reached out to see if she could purchase our sweaters for her staff and asked if I would accept BerkShares as payment. I agreed because using BerkShares represents a set of values that we believe in and know are important to this local economy. Lee Bank is our bank, and they are very supportive of the BerkShares program as well. As for me, I spend my BerkShares mainly at the hardware store—I go through lots of nails! Also, wherever I see a sign saying “We accept Berkshares.” We now link to BerkShares on our website to make it easier for our customers to get involved.
EDGE
What does the future of farming in the Berkshires look like to you?
BERLE
One of the biggest and most unexpected pleasures (after spending time with the sheep and the dogs) has been working with the young people on the farm who are excited and committed to its continuity. To see their capacity to care and to understand the vision and look ahead is very exciting.
