“God had a purpose for me, and I am very, very grateful. I love to see people enjoy our food, and the love and support from the community has really been great.”
— Loretta McClennon, owner of Momma Lo’s BBQ
Starting Memorial Day weekend and continuing long past Labor Day, myriads of Americans light up the briquettes and treat their tastebuds to shared feasts centered around grilled chicken, pulled pork, and barbecued ribs. But for many, the time, patience, and skill required to get the right flavor and tenderness can feel a bit daunting. If you are one of the many—or you’re looking for great food that’s ready to go without all the fuss—Momma Lo’s BBQ in Great Barrington is here to help.
The “bones” of American barbecue
According to FOOD52 writer Arlyn Osborne, in “A Brief History of the American Cookout,” the origins of American barbecue date back to the late 1400s, when Spanish explorers landed in the Caribbean, “where they came across an indigenous tribe known as the Taíno slow-cooking on wooden frames.” Traveling north, they took the new cooking technique (called “barbacoa,” which later became “barbecue”) with them.
Osborne goes on to explain that the practice took root in the American South at the beginning of the 19th century and quickly spread to other parts of the country. While many cultures are known for their grilling traditions, Southern-style barbecue—characterized by marinating meats in savory seasonings and sweet sauces and slow-cooking them over smoke and flames—has taken on a life of its own as an American pastime, custom, and way of gathering and celebrating holidays and special occasions with family and friends.
Landing in a tucked-away corner of GB in 2022
McClennon has been working in restaurants since she was 12. “The thing I always wanted to do was open a shop,” she says. For the backstory on how Momma Lo’s BBQ got its start—first in the parking lot outside Random Harvest and Zinnia’s Dinette in Craryville, New York, and later in the Triplex plaza in Great Barrington, check out E.M Marcus’s Business Monday Spotlight from March 2022.
From the very beginning, McClennon and her sons (Attarilm Kizr Aldin “AT” McClennon and Ahmed Zaki Aldin “Buddha” McClennon) have made everything from scratch, just like McClennon’s mom and grandmom did. “My mom had a BBQ restaurant. She also had 10 children (six girls and four boys), and I cooked breakfast for them every day growing up,” McClennon explains. “We were sharecroppers at the time, so we woke up at four or five every morning to pick blackberries, make ice cream, get the eggs, or can the vegetables. The only part I didn’t like was killing the animals.”
Growing the business—and the challenges of the third year
In contrast to its slow-cooked flavor, Momma Lo’s BBQ has quickly developed its customer base and community ties since opening two and a half years ago. It is now well known throughout Berkshire and Columbia Counties—with long lines out the door and devoted fans from near and far, including celebrities, fellow restauranteurs, and customers who followed Momma’s cooking from Craryville to Great Barrington.
“There were Latino, Asian, and American food venues in Barrington, but nothing like Momma Lo’s,” McClennon points out. “That day on the side of the road, when Richard Stanley first tasted our brisket and told me, ‘We need you in Great Barrington!’ led to all of this.” Noting they have much more overhead in Great Barrington than in their previous location serving under a tent, she acknowledges, “I’m very grateful to be here.”
Still, running the business during its third year has had its challenges. Like many other Great Barrington businesses, McClennon experienced a slight slowdown this year due to a combination of factors (inflation, weekend weather, general anxiety about the economy and the approaching election, etc).
The greatest challenge was having half of her lung removed in January. Calling it a “little setback,” McClennon explains, “I had a pain in my arm, but it took a while to figure out what was wrong. A doctor at Sharon Hospital (Connecticut) discovered a tumor on my lung. Later, my follow-up doctor in Pittsfield told me, ‘That pain in your arm saved your life.’”
While she was in the hospital and then home recuperating, her sons carried on the business—Buddha handling the meat and AT handling all the sides. “When I was in the hospital, the community really came through,” McClennon shares. She started a “Go Fund Me” page, and people responded, raising $10,000 to help her pay the mounting medical bills and restock the restaurant’s shelves. Now nearing the end of their third summer season, Momma Lo’s BBQ—and its namesake owner—are back in full swing.
Grounded in relationships, catering to the community
Sitting with McClennon for a short time outside her business gives you a quick glimpse into the many people who consider her a friend if not family. “Hey, baby” and “Hi, sweetheart” accompany her hugs and heartfelt greetings to people passing by throughout our conversation. In addition to building her customer base, the Great Barrington location has helped her form partnerships with other establishments (including Baba Louie’s, GB Eats, Azteca, and Gorham and Norton), who feature her barbecue on their menus.
Momma Lo’s feeds the community in many other ways as well. Beyond the countless customers they serve, there are the groups they feed through their catering business (approximately 40 percent of their overall business). They’ve catered events for Danny Meyer, founder and owner of Union Square Hospitality Group and the Shake Shack restaurants, and Mark Leavitt, co-founder of EHI (Enlightened Hospitality Investments), as well as for Norman Rockwell Museum and numerous other businesses. “I do a lot with Gwen VanSant [founder and CEO of Multicultural BRIDGE], and that has led us to other organizations,” McClennon notes. Momma Lo’s also donates auction items for local fundraisers (including for Multicultural BRIDGE, Berkshire South Regional Community Center, and Monument Mountain High School).
Giving back, now and in the future
As they state on their website, “We believe that Momma Lo’s BBQ is more than just a restaurant—it’s a part of the community. That’s why we’re committed to giving back to the people who have supported us over the years. From sponsoring local events to donating to charities, we’re always looking for ways to make a positive impact on the community we call home.”
Momma Lo’s also feeds a growing number of people who live without shelter. “There are a lot of homeless people out there who need food. We do whatever we can,” McClennon says. “I tell them, ‘Don’t worry. I’ll give it to you.’ People bless me so I can bless others.”
What would McClennon like to do next? First, she’d like to add a food truck to take her barbecue on the road—if she can get the financing together. But more importantly, she shares, “I would like to open up a shelter, with one side for battered women and one side for battered men [a shelter like Grace Smith House in Millerton, which welcomed her and her sons when they needed help]. I could serve as the cook and counselor.”
She’s putting those dreams on the slow cooker for now, but will keep tending the fire. Given her faith and path so far, it’s easy to imagine she’ll realize those dreams, too.
