A cold glass of milk. Yogurt for your morning granola. A cheese platter shared with friends. Oh, and ice cream … This month, Berkshire Grown is celebrating everything dairy. And if those examples had you thinking of cow’s milk, don’t forget the many products that can be made with goat and sheep milk, too (mmm, chevre). As part of National Dairy Month, we’re exploring the spectrum of dairy products and dairy farms in the Berkshire region.
Berkshire dairy producers range from small operations hand-milking their cows, to larger farms supplying milk to national distributors, and even goat farmers crafting artisanal cheeses. These farmers have their work cut out for them. They care for their animals and their farmland. They handle the daily milking chores and attend markets. Many of them develop enticing new value-added products, like aged cheeses and yogurt.
Despite farmers’ hard work and passion, the dairy industry is struggling. It was once the backbone of agriculture in New England, but falling milk prices, changing consumer preferences, and real estate development pressure have changed the outlook for dairy farmers. There are plenty of success stories, especially from farmers who diversified to stay afloat, but there are also many stories of farms lost and massive mental health tolls for farmers. “Between 2012 and 2017, we lost 21 percent of dairy farms in Massachusetts,” wrote Claire Morenon of Community Involved in Sustaining Agriculture (CISA) in South Deerfield. “The practical impact is alarming, and still it doesn’t capture the depth of these losses … it’s a deeply personal tragedy to the farmers and their neighbors.”
At Berle Farm in Hoosick Falls, New York, Beatrice Berle has been dairy farming since 1993. “When I handle the organic milk produced on the farm, I am in awe of how much is created by the magic of sun, soil, grass and water,” she said. Berle feels lucky to be a dairy farmer, and is proud of her products, including customer favorites such as yogurt and aged, raw milk cheese such as BerleBerg and HayMakers.
While people appreciate the bucolic charm of a dairy farming landscape, that doesn’t translate into sustainability for the industry. As Sarah Gardner, chair of the Williamstown Agricultural Commission, explained in the short film “Farms For the Future,” “[Farmers] can’t necessarily afford to hold on to farmland [just] because it’s beautiful for us.” As consumers, we can help support the local farming industry by seeking out local dairy products and, when budgets allow, paying a premium for them. And if you’re thinking you can only get those products at farmers markets and farm stores, think again. Many local dairy farms supply national dairy cooperatives like Cabot, Hood, and Organic Valley. You might not know it, but some of the milk at the grocery store or in your children’s school cafeteria might be coming from local farms. You can find out more about your milk by entering the product code at Where Is My Milk From?
High Lawn Farm in Lee is a third-generation, family-owned farm that will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2023. The farmers at High Lawn have carefully managed their Jersey herd’s genetics, graze their cows seasonally, and produce a range of products, from plain milk to artisan cheeses and inventive ice cream flavors. Farmer Caitlyn Moriarty said that having a passionate team of farmers and a skilled culinary team contributes to their success, along with their “happy, healthy cows,” of course. During the pandemic, High Lawn helped support the community by donating and selling milk at low cost to local food pantries and schools.
Many dairy farmers work with goats instead of cows, and appreciate goats’ smaller land requirements and the unique qualities of their milk. At Dandelion Hill Farm in Sheffield, Melissa and Peter Martin found that their daughter, who was allergic to cow’s milk and other alternatives, thrived on goat milk. They started raising their own purebred Nubian goats and have been growing their herd ever since. “We love offering our goat milk to families because their children love the taste,” the Martins said. The farm also produces a delicious chevre.
Laurie Cuevas of Thomas Farm and Dairy in Sunderland also raises Nubian goats, and says that their “milk is truly ideal for making cheese,” with a “fresh, clean flavor.” The farm’s chevre, made in a variety of flavors, is their star product. “We have to be very diverse in order to be successful with such a small amount of acreage,” Cuevas said. This means that she and her husband wear many hats as they produce, package, and market their cheeses. The realities of dairy farming can be tough, but Laurie said they “love the animals and the land” and are proud of their products.
So, whether you shop the farmers market for your favorite cheese, grab ice cream at the grocery store, or stop by a local farmstand for a jug of milk, know that you’re supporting the Berkshires’ local farm economy. When our dairy farms thrive, landscapes and livelihoods are preserved.
